I return to Africa for this blog and an expedition I made several years ago to Uganda. My inspiration was to follow in the footsteps of the great explorers in their quest to find the source of the Nile. The following feature was printed in Adventure Travel Magazine.
RWENZORI -
QUEST FOR THE SOURCE
Climbed Kilimanjaro? Trekked
Mount Kenya? Stared in awe across the Ngorongoro Crater? Then you could be
forgiven for thinking that you have experienced the finest that East Africa has
to offer. But, if you haven’t visited the Rwenzoris then you have missed one of
the best wilderness adventures on the continent. Stu Westfield puts on his
waterproofs and sets out in a quest to re-discover the glaciers at the source
of the Nile.
The position of the Nile’s
source has long been a hot topic of debate. For a while, in the 1800’s, it was
accepted to be Lake Victoria. But, if you consider the Rwenzori range acts as a
massive reservoir, constantly filling the Victoria basin, then I can argue that
the source of the Nile is really on top of Mount Stanley. Which is a good thing
for us adventurers as the Rwenzori mountains are readily accessible in
a two week journey through a lost world of bizarre plants, infamous bogs and
remote peaks.
Shortly before our arrival in
the dusty town of Kasese our mini-bus clattered loudly over a concrete bridge.
The river underneath was in full flow, having been topped up by recent storms.
‘Does it go all the way to the Nile?’ I asked our
Ugandan driver.
‘Sure, it will find its way there eventually.’ He said. ‘But
we prefer to think of it as ending in that swamp on your left.’
I looked across a sea of green papyrus reeds into which the
white water magically disappeared.
That evening, on veranda of
the Margherita hotel, I gazed out to the surrounding hills as the equatorial
light faded. A rumble in the sky announced the impending arrival of a
thunderstorm. There was a heavy smell of ozone in the air and a couple of
minutes later, a bolt of lightning found earth nearby. My irises contracted in
reaction to the intense flash. Thunder clapped and the hotel generator tripped
out, plunging me and a marabou stork, sitting on top of the tree opposite, into
darkness. Torrential rain followed. I sat into a chair and drained my beer. ‘Welcome back
to Africa.’ I
thought in romantic contentment.
All expeditions to the
Rwenzori National Park start at the headquarters in the village of
Nyakalengija, where my fellow adventurers and I were introduced to our guides
and porters. Formalities taken care of, it was only a short walk until we
entered the jungle, which grew with a vigorous wild beauty in the saturated
soil.
Long before we reached a mass
of huge granite blocks deposited on the banks of the Mubuku river, I could hear
the roaring noise of water crashing over boulders. It was a sound that would accompany us for
most of the trek. It took four and a half hours to walk the seven kilometres
and ascend 1000 metres to Nyabitaba hut.
Night arrives quickly at the equator and in the flickering light of a
candle there was lively conversation over dinner. But, surrounded by pitch
blackness, there wasn’t
much else to do before going to bed.
When trekking the Rwenzori
circuit each day brings a different ecological zone and new obstacles to
overcome. After breakfast, we passed through a dense thicket, stepping over
thick roots and ducking under low slung branches. The rungs of a makeshift,
wooden, ladder dropped down ten metres to the riverside where the equally
rickety Kurt Schaffer Bridge crossed the Mubuku.
At an altitude of 3000 metres
we entered the bamboo zone, the thick poles of this tall monoculture blocking
out much of the sunlight. Beyond, the going became much more boggy and on
several occasions I sank calf deep into soft ground. At home in their
environment, the local lads made light work of it as they seemed to float over
the mud.
Our picnic lunch was abruptly
curtailed by a rapid drop in temperature and another heavy cloud burst. The
rain fuelling a return to high humidity, mid-afternoon. A section of boardwalk
made life easier underfoot as the trail wound through giant heather, ferns and
moss in a dense ericaceous forest. I paused beside a tree stump, around which
grew liverwort, lichen and a few small yellow mushrooms. Growing through the
moss, vibrant magenta coloured orchids were scattered over the forest
floor.
I once read that the infamous
Rwenzori Bigo Bog makes the vertical bog on Mount Kenya look like a walk in the
park. I was curious to see whether the reality lived up to the reputation of
this all consuming quagmire. It turned out to be the most testing terrain I had
ever walked through. The mud was relentless and the best encouragement we could
offer one another took the form of crazed humour.
“Embrace the mud!” We called
out as we plunged onwards.
Five hours later I arrived at
Bujuku Hut thoroughly knackered and the remainder of the team were strung out
in various states of fatigue.
Feeling the effects of the
altitude, I had an awful night’s sleep and so got up early in the morning. With a
refreshing cup of tea in my hand, I stood outside and was joined by Finn. The sun bathed the snow on Mount Baker in a
crisp light which had just begun to illuminate the valley down to Lake
Kitandara.
‘Beautiful, isn’t it?’ I said in reverence.
‘Yeah.’ Replied Finn. ‘Its just like Scotland but with funky
trees.’
Out of Bujuku hut and we were
straight back into the bog, tracing around the opposite shore of the lake
before following the trail up a narrow gully set into a steep cliff face. The
exposure was disguised by thick groundsel until we reached a fixed ladder,
constructed from heavy steel tubing. This brought us out onto a high pass,
where the path eventually dried out. Three hundred metres of hard gradient was
followed by a scramble up several rock steps, the tops of which were
glassy smooth with frozen melt water or coated in frictionless lichen. It wasn't the most elegant style with which I negotiated the hazard, I admit, but safer than a tumble none the less.
More boulders impeded progress
before we arrived, tired and cold, at the bleak Elena Hut. Inside, it was
cramped with twelve of us packed into the small space. I was awoken several
times in the night by the ominous sound of rock fall and avalanches. One of
them rolled on for so long, becoming progressively louder, that I wondered
where it would stop. Just after midnight, by the light of our head torches, the
team crossed the slabs surrounding Elena and started scrambling up a steep
gully. The first thirty metres presented no problems and on the wide ledges I
stepped upwards without relying upon the rope. However, our progress slowed as
a sheen of ice crystals clung to the face. So, we each tied in with a prussic
loop to safeguard against a slip becoming a serious fall.
On the straightforward
gradient beyond our fixed line, I used my ice axe on the mixed ground, as fresh
snow had fallen overnight. The white patches glowed with a blue luminescence
where my torch cut into the darkness.
Daybreak gave form to several
moderately exposed ledges. I paused and remembered I had seen a similar
formation on the north ridge of Tryfan in Wales. I worked my way across the
rocks, around an outcrop and up onto flat slabs leading to the snout of the
Stanley glacier. The rising sun’s rays bounced off it with blinding intensity. Squinting,
I fished out the sunglasses from my pack and sat down to put on my crampons.
With excited anticipation, I tightened the straps.
A layer of cotton wool cloud
hovered below us at four thousand metres. Above, Stanley’s twin peaks
of jet black stone pierced the blue above their snow covered saddle. Once on
the glacier, there was a half hour of easy walking which lead to a down climb
over steps covered with scree.
Our guide looked concerned and
he called for our attention. ‘There’s a large serac above our route, which is in
danger of collapsing.’ He informed us. Usually Mount Stanley is swathed in
mist, keeping the temperatures low and the ice solid. The glorious sunrise
which had allowed us superb views of the peaks had also left the withering equatorial
heat beating down on the high ground.
There was no safe option other
than to retreat, our crampons points squeaking and scraping on the bare rock as
we climbed out of the couloir. But, instead of walking directly down the
Stanley glacier we made a small diversion to its crest and hence claimed
victory in reaching the highest watershed of the Nile. Here lay the mythical
source and our efforts were rewarded with a magnificent view down onto green
expanse of the Congo basin.
Once off the glacier, we
rappelled back down to Elena hut and trekked for three hours via Scott Elliot
Pass, the highest point reached by non-climbers on the Rwenzori circuit, to
Kitandara Hut: Which was positive luxury in so much as it was windproof, more
spacious and had a covered veranda. The sleeping arrangements were still very
communal, but once settled, I quickly dozed off to sleep. Beside the hut ran a stream, fast
flowing over a bed of clean gravel, feeding a tranquil lake. It was a perfect
place to rest.
The steep hike out took us over icy boulders and above the
snowline to Freshfield Pass. Here we found a winter wonderland with scarlet
chested sunbirds busy drinking nectar from tall giant lobelia flower
spikes.
Then we were back into bog country with waist high tussocks
choking up the valley. Progress was infuriating as not all the tussocks could
hold the weight of a person and when one of them gave way I was pitched
downwards into the marsh. Instead, I tried walking at ground level, only to be
slowed by thin tendrils which attached themselves to my gaiters and wrapped
around my trekking poles. It took twice the effort to walk half as far, it
seemed like the Rwenzori was alive and unwilling to release me. I extricated
myself from another tangle, muttering ‘Bloody tussocks.’
We followed the foaming roar of white water. It came back
into view transformed into a vision of paradise. The river had widened, making
a soothing swoosh as the crystal clear flow slid over an almost perfectly flat
bed of solid rock. For the rest of the afternoon we feasted our eyes upon an
inspiring sequence of natural wonders and panoramas which looked like scenes
from pre-history. The only things missing from the valley floor were iguanodon
browsing on the lush vegetation and pterodactyls flying overhead.
The final day in the Rwenzoris
began with a steep descent on a muddy path hugging the side of a precipice. The
last major hazard was a tower of chaotic wooden ladders. At the base, I saw
that our porter team had gathered. They welcomed the arrival of their
colleagues and clients with equal enthusiasm, cheering and clapping.
The trail was once again
bathed in sunshine, so I paused to take off my fleece. In the silence my ears
tuned into the natural rhythms of the forest.
A chorus of cicadas and birdsong echoing from the canopy brought
serenity and calm. Sun dappled light danced over the bushes, chasing a
multitude of yellow and tortoiseshell coloured butterflies.
At the edge of the park, in an
abrupt contrast to the enveloping jungle, cultivated fields and terraces
reached high into the hills, showing the changes that agriculture has brought
to the environment. Chickens strutted around the rough built huts in
Nyakalengija. Tethered goats picked over thin grass, women carried produce and
small children ran around playing. Men
stood around in small relaxed groups, smoking and watching the world pass by.
At the headquarters we parted from our guides and boarded our mini bus for the
dusty ride back to the Margherita hotel.
Within two hours, our group was relaxed on the terrace and
watching the setting sun as we awaited our drinks order. There was a sense of
anticipation which reminded me of the final scene in the film Ice Cold In
Alex, where John Mills paused, caressed the dew on his cool glass of beer
before downing it in one long draught. The waiter arrived with a tray of drinks
and I could not resist a homage which was so apt for the moment, finishing my
first mouthful of Nile Special with, “Aaah, worth waiting for!”
‘In a world which has lost all sense of perspective, there is a sense of timeless energy in East Africa which is food for the soul.’
RWENZORI -
QUEST FOR THE SOURCE : FACT FILE
WHERE: Rwenzori
National Park, Uganda.
ACTIVITY: Jungle
trekking, scrambling, glacier travel, safari.
TOTAL TIME: 2
weeks or more. Trekking to the source of the Nile is one heck of a ‘top that’
when it comes to answering ‘where did you go on holiday this year?’ It took the
best explorers the Victorians could muster, months, if not years just to reach
the African lakes. On this expedition you’ll truly be standing on the shoulders
of giants.
DIFFICULTY: Strenuous
trekking at altitude.
LOOK OUT FOR:
The infamous Bigo Bog. Scenery from a lost world.
Glaciers on the equator.
GETTING
THERE: Unfortunately British Airways have since canned the direct Heathrow to Entebbe route. As an alternative , look at Kenya Airways, via Nairobi Stay overnight in nearby capital city Kampala, then bus to
Kasese (300 km). Driving yourself is not recommended. At Kasese, Overnight at
Margherita hotel. Transfer to the road head at Nyakalenjiga if using Rwenzori Mountain Services guides. Nowadays there is another guiding company to choose from based at Backpackers in Kampala, with a hostel local to the Rwenzori.
LOGISTICS: It’s
worthwhile joining an organised expedition, whether from the UK or booked with
a Ugandan operator who can arrange your pick up from the airport, in country transport,
hotel accommodations and liaison with the Rwenzori Mountain Services. Doing it
all yourself on this trip probably isn’t worth the money you’ll save. Let
someone else deal with the hassle and you’ll then have more time to enjoy the
journey.
SWEET DREAMS:
Hotel accommodation is generally comfortable, if a
little dated. On the trek, sleeping is in bunk huts, some with separate rooms.
Elena hut is cold, draughty and very basic.
HOW MUCH: Once
in Uganda, costs are affordable and unlike Kenya where traders start bartering
at silly prices, souvenirs are generally good value for money. Tips form an important part of guides and
porters wages. But remember that disproportional gratuities can create a
culture of expectation as has often been experienced by trekkers on
Kilimanjaro.
WHEN: The
dry seasons in Uganda are from June to early October and late November to early
March. But, the Rwenzoris are known locally as the rain maker, constantly
filling the Victoria lake system, so expect wet weather at any time of year.
WHAT TO TAKE:
The peat ground is like walking on a saturated sponge
so you’ll need trekking boots with yeti gaiters or Wellingtons to cope
with the bogs. Weather ranges from
tropically hot and wet to chilly in the evenings. Waterproof over trousers and
jacket with light base layer works well for walking. If heading above the trekking circuit, to the peaks: Ice axe, 4 season boots,
crampons, rope and harness are required for an attempt on the Mount Stanley
summit. Warm sleeping bag.
ON THE TREK: Get
to know your guides. They’re
a great bunch of guys who are a mine of information regarding plants and
animals and are keen to share their knowledge.
Assuming you have a reasonable
level of fitness, there is adequate time each day to cover the relatively short
distances between huts, so take your time. A relaxed pace will also help with acclimatisation.
Stop and enjoy the views. The
Rwenzori mountain environment is unique and spectacular. When walking through
the bogs, it’s
easy to spend all day watching where you‘re treading! At the end of each day, look after
your feet by thoroughly drying them and using foot powder.
WHEN
SCRAMBLING: These remote mountains are not the place to be
taking unnecessary risks. With a multiple day stretcher evacuation required before
motorised transport can be used to the nearest hospital, the consequences of
any accident are serious. So use the
protection of a rope while scrambling and be aware of the changing weather
conditions.
ADD ON
EXCURSION: No trip to
East Africa would be complete without a safari. For a luxury treat, wash off
the Rwenzori mud at the Mweya Lodge before returning home. Situated in Queen
Elizabeth National Park, with stunning views overlooking the Kazinga channel,
it is one of the best places in Uganda to view wildlife. Photography
enthusiasts and bird watchers will be glad they brought a long telephoto lens
(300mm or more). Game drives and boat rides can be arranged by the lodge.
UGANDA
POLITICS: Uganda has come a long way since the despotic
dictatorship of Idi Amin in the 1970’s. Readers over forty-something will no
doubt remember how bad things got from the BBC television news coverage at the
time. But as with other war torn African nations, the people of Uganda have
shown a remarkable ability to heal their country’s wounds. There are still
areas where tourism remains inadvisable, notably north of Murchison Falls, due
to the activities of the Lords Resistance Army rebel group and in some border
regions with the Congo. However, as important sources of tourist revenue, the
Rwenzori and Queen Elizabeth National Parks are well protected.
FURTHER
READING:
Guide To The Rwenzori - Henry
Osmaston (The Rwenzori Trust)
Trekking In East Africa
(Lonely Planet Guides)
Ruwenzori* Map And Guide -
Andrew Wielochowski (EWP) * alternative spelling
Stu Westfield
Ranger Expeditions
www.rangerexped.co.uk
rangerexped@hotmail.co.uk
07890 620274
