#039 Autumn Jewels

As summer, such as it was, drew to a sporadic close and the chill of autumn permeated the evening air, I returned to a some of my old haunts, the New Forest, Petworth Park and Kingley Vale National Nature Reserve on the South Downs. I have enjoyed many hours with clients in these special places, guiding walks and sharing navigation skills. In the company of friends and just on my own, the spectacle of ancient oaks, giant redwoods and astonishingly old yew forest in a patchwork of heather moor or rare chalk grassland never fails to bring a deep sense of connection to nature.

In Setthorns New Forest camp on the first night, in the last tired light, I was reacquainted with a favourite wildlife watch as three fallow deer backs started their crepuscular patrol. Their large and heavily palmate antlers serving as a reminder, if such was needed, that the annual fallow rut would soon be upon us.

The following morning, on a stroll along the nearby forest trail, the ubiquitous black berries were beginning to ripen. I noticed how at the browse line, there were more pickles on holly leaves than further up the tree. In fact, you don’t need to look too hard anywhere in the forest to see how a large population of fallow and red deer have influenced the vegetation.

It’s always a pleasure to sit quietly and watch deer as they move, undisturbed, through their woodland home. However, for those with less time, the public deer viewing platform at Boulderwood offers a much easier opportunity which also reduces the disruption to the wider deer population.

A forest ranger once told me that too many people were crashing through the area and getting too close, looking to take that prize-winning photo. As a consequence, during the rutting season, the New Forest red deer had modified their natural behaviour of returning to their old ‘stands’ and now rutted ‘on the hoof’.

Another of my autumn favourites is Petworth Park. The landscaping features among Capability Brown’s finest work. Grazing the gently rolling contours are a herd of habituated but still very wild fallow deer. It is here I spent a couple of seasons filming my short film Fallow Deer Rut. 
Link to Ranger Expeditions Fallow Deer Rut film.

It takes virtually no effort to find the deer, which will disappoint the tracking enthusiasts, but the real pleasure here is to sit and observe some phenomenal behaviours. During filming in 2011, with a long lens I hasten to add, I was treated to some epic battles of powerful bucks fighting for dominance of the lek. The Petworth deer are well managed and so without too much stress, generations of bucks have developed large antlers and seem generally bigger than their free roaming counterparts.

This year, I was aware I would be a little early for the main show, so to speak, but still saw the beginning of the lek formation, bucks assessing the condition of the does as well as mild intolerance of the younger males.

Returning to Kingley Vale has become something of a pilgrimage. Tucked away on the edge of the South Downs, the nature reserve is significantly important mosaic of grassland and ancient yew forest. The yews are some old the oldest living organisms in the United Kingdom. Their survival is remarkable, given that yew was the material of choice for the late medieval English longbow. Archaeological evidence at Kingley includes prehistoric flint mines, bronze age burials and Iron Age settlement.

The atmospheric yew forest, leading into a tranquil bowl of chalk grassland and hilltop views which look out towards the sea over alluvium plains, evokes a deep spiritual connection to nature. At one time, much more of our environment was like this. To our ancestors, such a connection would be commonplace, even essential, for survival. My walk through Kingley revealed, at every turn, a delight of autumn colours, berries and fruits of the forest.

Lords-and-ladies (Arum maculatum), also known as cuckoo-pint.

The root, when roasted well, is edible and when ground was once traded under the name of Portland sago. It was used like salep (orchid flour) to make saloop — a drink popular before the introduction of tea or coffee. It was also used as a substitute for arrowroot. But, if prepared incorrectly, it can be highly toxic.

Midland Hawthorn (Crataegus laevigata)

It also makes good charcoal, and has a reputation for burning at high temperatures. The young leaves, flower buds and young flowers are all edible. They can be added to green salads and grated root salads. The developing flower buds are particularly good. The haws can be eaten raw but may cause mild stomach upset. They are most commonly used to make jellies, wines and ketchups. (source: Woodland Trust)

Dogwood (Cornus Sanguinea)

The origin of the name comes from the smooth straight twigs, which were used to make butchers’ skewers. Skewers used to be called 'dags' or 'dogs', so the name means 'skewer wood'. (Source: Woodland Trust)

Rosehip

Wild rose hip fruits are particularly rich in vitamin C. Rose hips are commonly used as an herbal tea, often blended with hibiscus, and an oil is also extracted from the seeds. They can also be used to make jam, jelly, marmalade, and rose hip wine. Rose hip soup, "nyponsoppa", is especially popular in Sweden. Rhodomel, a type of mead, is made with rose hips. (picture shows rosehip, growing through hawtorn)

Spindle Tree (Euonymus europaeus) flower

I was so pleased to find this little tree back in flower. I found the species many years ago while working on plant knowledge for the NCFE Bushcraft Award test. The subsequent research and identification was a key moment in my bushcraft journey. European spindle wood is very hard, and can be cut to a sharp point; it was used in the past for making spindles for wool-spinning and for butchers' skewers.

Yew (Taxus baccata) berry

All parts, except the flesh of the berries, contain taxin(e) a complex of alkaloids which is rapidly absorbed. Also present are ephedrine, a cyanogenic glycoside (taxiphyllin) and a volatile oil. Though the berries are harmless, the seed within is highly toxic. (source: The Poison Garden)

Buckthorn (Rhamnus cathartica)

It was once used as a purgative, which was thought to help rid the body of illness and disease.

Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia), mountain ash

Rowan berries are edible to humans – they are sour but rich in vitamin C, and can be used to make a jelly to accompany meats. The colour red was considered to be the best colour for fighting evil, and so the rowan, with its bright red berries, has long been associated with magic and witches. Its old Celtic name is 'fid na ndruad', which means wizards' tree (source: Woodland Trust)

Too soon, it was nearly time to leave this special place. The light was fading to dusk and I had to be elsewhere. Just a few more minutes, I thought, and quietly trod past the tree line into open country. On the grassland, I was downwind of a light breeze, filtering through the surrounding ancient yew watchers. And there she was, as if it was meant to be, just like all those years ago. I froze, still, very still. Oblivious the doe continued her grazing. I turned the focus ring on my camera, slowly raised my arm and clicked two or three frames.

What a delight, she looked so healthy, in her prime, her summer coat bright red like a fox. Roe are widely distributed in the UK but are solitary or paired:  A buck's territory overlapping with one or two females in their rutting season (July & August). Unlike red and fallow deer which are herd species.  I had been extraordinarily lucky this evening for all the elements to come together and be carrying a camera to photograph this shy and flighty species of deer. With an inward smile, I retreated quietly back into the enveloping shadows of the yews.

Happy with my evening adventure, I walked briskly along the gravel trail back to the car park. Then, I couldn’t believe my luck. Another roe on the tree line of the adjacent field. I knew I was spotted way before I saw the deer. I carried on, slowing slightly but not breaking my stride or the obvious cadence of crunch of feet on gravel. I clicked the camera on, paused behind a tree trunk, clicked off a few shots and carried onward.

Getting back home to Hayfield, a lingon (also known as cowberry) bush I planted last year in the garden had begun to flourish and offered several berries. Enough to mash with some sugar and make a sweet and sour paste for a small fillet of salmon.

Autumn has always felt like a special time. The crisp early morning and evening sunlight casting particulalry glorious golden and ochre hues. But the show was not yet over. As my thoughts turn to the spectacle of the red deer rut with time out on Big Moor and Chatsworth Park.

Stu Westfield
Trekking Guide and Mountain Leader

Guided walks, challenge days, hill skills training, ultra running events.

#038 Search for Local Hero

There's a place where the Northern Lights transform the sky
Modern mermaids spring from the sea
The land breathes with an ancient mystery
And all who witness its wonders
Come to believe in its magic

Such goes the low echoing tone voice-over of the trailer for the 1983 film Local Hero.

Link to You Tube: Cinematic trailer for Local Hero

By comparison to today's movies Local Hero contains none of the seemingly pre-requisite violence, nudity, special effects or ludicrous story lines. Thirty five years on, its a film which should have faded into obscurity. And yet, it endures and is treasured with heartfelt warmth.

At first glance, the plot is simple enough: Big oil business seeks to exploit pristine environment and buy out resident population of the fictional fishing village of Ferness at the cheapest possible price. Indeed taken in isolation, everything about Local Hero is unassuming. With the exception of Burt Lancaster, the cast at the time could hardly be described as Hollywood icons. Peter Capaldi and Jenny Seagrove would go on to be well respected and award winning names in theatre, film and British drama (Doctor Who, Judge John Deed, Endeavour etc).

 Oldsen (Peter Capaldi), Gordon (Dennis Lawson), Stella (Jennifer Black) & Mac (Peter Reigert)

The humour is never overplayed, but is none the less funny. Especially with Dennis Lawson's portrayal of Gordon Urquhart as the local factotum who pops up as pub landlord, solicitor and hotel proprietor.

Then there's Mac, played by Peter Riegert, who's task it is to open negotiations for the oil company. But Mac's efforts are thwarted by old man Ben, played by Fulton Mackay (most often remembered for his role as prison warder from British sitcom Porridge). Ben lives on the beach in a shack and is  wholly contented with his simple life. No amount of money that Mac offers can entice Ben to give this up.

Ben and Mac

To begin with, Mac is all about securing the deal. Its a matter of numbers and what he perceives as winning. This is until the village and its people start to get under his hard business shell. He begins to see them as something more than an obstacle to be overcome with dollars. He starts to care that by selling out, they are on the verge of losing the very things his life is devoid of.

"I want to stay here, run the hotel, do little bits of business. You can go to Houston. Take the Porsche, the house, the job. It's a good life there, Gordon. I pull down 80,000 a year, plus I take over 50,000 in mixed securities. I want you to have it all...And I won't let you down your good name here Gordon. 
I'll make a good Gordon, Gordon."

So is Local Hero a film about transformation? 

Certainly, yes. But this is like saying The Shawshank Redemption is a film about a prison escape! Shawshank, like Local Hero, is the type of film which draws you back time and again. You know what's going to happen, yet it remains fresh and the emotional journey intensifies with each time of watching.

One You Tube comment on Local Hero reads...

"I watch this film when I need to go deep"

Jeremy Clarkson as a presenter, Marmite to the British public, once said with surprising profundity for Top Gear...

"...greatest films of all time: Local Hero, Shawshank Redemption, Zulu"

To create the magic of Local Hero, director Bill Forsyth (who two years previously had delivered the hit Gregory's Girl) chose two main locations on opposite sides of Scotland. The famous red phone box (we'll come back to that later) and Ferness are actually the fishing village of Penan in Aberdeenshire. Whereas the beach, church and hotel interior scenes are around Morar, Mallaig and Arisaig on the west coast.

Gordon & Mac

The first time I tried to locate the location known as Ben's Beach in the film, I ended up at the tourist information office in Mallaig.

"Excuse me, I'm trying to find the beach in a film made locally..."
"Oh you'll be looking for Ben's Beach" the gentleman at the desk said without hesitation in a soft, almost lyrical, accent.
"That's right" I smiled, I'm most definitely not the first visitor to ask this, I thought.
"Three miles down to road, there's the sign for Camusdarach"

Camusdarach Beach

In real life Camusdarach is a delight for the senses. On a sunny day the minerals in the white sand reflect the light with illuminating brilliance. Yellow primroses dance in the sea breeze as they hang onto the bedrock reaching out into the water. With your back to the grassy dunes the view sweeps across a turquoise sea to the Cuillins of Skye and islands of Eigg and Rum.

At its northern end, beach can be accessed from a car park behind the dunes. Or if you're staying at the lovely Camusdarach campsite and self-catering cottages, buy a coffee and pan-au-chocolat from reception in the morning and take the private path to where Ben's shack was situated.

Link to: Camusdarach Camping and Cottages

Oldsen & Mac

To the right of the beach is a small house. In the film this was given a set dressing to make it into the village Church.

The real church, or more precisely the inside of it, is Our Lady Of The Braes Roman Catholic Church, a few miles east along the A830 at Polnish. It has ceased to be used for worship and for many years has stood unused and neglected. It has now been renovated into a private residence, but can be seen from a lay-by on the road.

Our Lady Of The Braes Church

A little further along the A830 is the Lochailort Inn where the interior scenes of the hotel were filmed. The inn was extensively refurbished in 2011, but retains the charm of a Scottish lodge with real fire, leather upholstery, elegant tartan fabrics and a warm welcome from the landlady manager.

Lochailort Inn

On my way back to Camusdarach, I pulled over to take a photo of Loch Eilt, somewhere near the camera position for the helicopter sequence at towards the end of the film.

Loch Eilt

So what is it about Local Hero that resonates with so many people?

Is it Mark Knopfler's soundtrack which weaves a mystical and at times almost mournful thread through the story, ultimately lifting the spirit in the finale, Going Home? A theme tune which he often plays as a encore in his live concerts. Each time I have walked down to the beach I almost subconsciously start to hum the tune.

Is Local Hero a film about choices?

Well there's the ending! On the surface it feels like the right things happen to the village and its people. But, we remain with Mac having arrived home to his Houston high rise apartment. Its fitted out with every modern labour saving convenience. The sounds of the metropolis, the city which never sleeps, drift in though the open window. From his coat pocket he retrieves some shells he had collected from Ben's Beach. He lifts them to his nose, smells the sea and connects with the memories.

Something has changed, he is no longer the same person that left before the assignment. He now questions all that he previously held to be true.

Perhaps this is the power of the story. We are left with unanswered questions as the the image fades to black, wondering what is next for Mac. Will he have the courage to complete his transformation? Or will he slip back into what is familiar, safe, the easy option? In the hope that one day the yearning will lessen and that the aching loss of what could have been will fade.

Just when this gentle film has delivered its devastating play.

Bill Forsyth cuts to the red phone box back in Ferness.

...and it rings.

You Tube link: Local Hero ending

You Tube link: Mark Kermode on the enduring love for Local Hero

Rafa on Camusdarach Beach

Stu Westfield
Written from somewhere on Ben's Beach
Ranger Expeditions
www.rangerexped.co.uk

#037 Paleolithic Lamp and the dawn of creativity

Reaching Back In Time

For some time I have been fascinated by the cultural revolution that occurred 6000 years ago, when millenia of hunter gathering was overtaken by new stone age farmers. The Neolithic spawned new ways of thinking and living together. It gave rise to a sophisticated cosmology, the evidence we can still see in standing stones, circles and rock cut pictograms.

But, around 40,000 years ago in the Upper Paleolithic, there was an earlier period of cultural change and transformation...

In a world where metal had yet to be smelted from rock, all tools, clothing and shelter had to be made from wood, antler, bone and stone. Our ancestors' ancient living skills continues to this day in the few hunter gatherer societies remaining on earth; the Hadzape and San are notable in East and Southern Africa, still clinging on to cultures largely unchanged in tens of thousands years. This is despite persecution, marginalisation and poor representation in political circles.

Ray Mears World Of Survival - TV Series

In the UK, ancient living skills have enjoyed a resurgence. Mostly due to the television programmes of Ray Mears, inviting millions of viewers to join him vicariously on Bushcraft journeys, which inspired people to reach out and rediscover ways of life almost lost to us.

The Dawn Of Creativity

In his book The Mind In The Cave, archaeologist David Lewis-Williams, discusses the development of human consciousness and what made our homo-sapiens ancestors decorate caves and rocky outcrops with images of bison, deer, horse and other species. He theorises that human brains' evolved a higher level of consciousness, gaining the ability to conceive abstract concepts such as the future and plan complex and cooperative activities such as hunting. This is what made humans fully modern. It is what differentiated us from other mammals and importantly other homo-species.

It offers an explanation as to why the Neanderthals, with a lower level of cognitive thought, might only be able to conceive of the present and short term future. It certainly fits with Neanderthals' apparent lack of elaborate funerary practice and functional but basic tools. The rise of the homo-sapiens in the upper paleolithic was accompanied by fine microlith tools, burials accompanied by grave goods and most probably, language.

(Update: Since publication, the discovery of the Shanidar flower burial in Iraq, as it has become known, has cast Neanderthals fresh light as empathic beings who cared enough for their dead to scour the mountains for funeral bouquets.)

This said, we should credit Neanderthals as a highly successful species. They existed for some 200,000 years and were adapted to their environment. But, in Darwinian terms, competition is a catalyst for change. Competition for resources, such as game, between the Neanderthals and early homo-sapiens could have accelerated the development of a higher level of consciousness and ability. We don't know whether this competition manifested itself in conflict, but we do know that as the range, and culture, of homo-sapiens expanded, the Neanderthal population ebbed away.

Lewis-Williams proposes that this higher consciousness and development of language had to go hand in hand. Such sophisticated concepts such burials with artefacts (indicating belief in some form of after life) and communication of corralling hunting techniques could only be done with the aid of language. Also, why would humans go to such extraordinary lengths as to journey deep into cave systems, far deeper than necessary for shelter, to paint images. A plausible explanation is that these were part of a shamanic, or spiritual experience, only possible in a brain which had evolved to be capable of such thought and abstract ideas.

The Paleolithic Lamp

To create deep cave art, such as that created in Lascaux and Chauvet, people must first have been able to see what they were doing. It's here that the archaeological record can help us. Found in the La Mouthe cave in the Dordogne was a stone lamp. It's a simple thing when viewed with 21st century eyes used to microchips and instant worldwide messaging. However, if we consider the dexterity required to craft the lamp and the ingenuity to visualise the outcome of it containing a burning wick fuelled by animal fat, then this is indeed a remarkable object. Especially so, given that the oldest paleolithic art dates to around 37,000 years ago.

However, on the underside is an etching of a ibex head with exaggerated curving horns. This image would not have been seen when the lamp was in use. Even if we consider this to be no more than an adornment, that someone thought to embellish the lamp further demonstrates a high level imaginative thought. More evidence of homo-sapiens ability to out-think, out-perform and out-complete the Neanderthals.

Re-Creating The Paleolithic Lamp

I selected a piece of Orcadian sandstone for this project. Firstly because it had already been naturally eroded by the sea to a shape which already offered a convenient hand hold in one corner. Secondly because sandstone is readily shaped and the 'well' would be more easily formed, compared with harder rock.

For the animal fat fuel, I used lard bought from my local village shop.

For the wick I selected Soft Rush Juncus effusus. This is a common moorland species of tall rush (to 130cm) which is densely tufted and grows straight up. They form dense stands, the  stems are smooth cylinders that contain a continuous foam-like pith.

It is the pith which is required to make the wick. I took three pieces of different ages, from fresh growth to a dying stem. The outer stem of the greener shoots was much easier to peel back and retain a continuous length of pith. I then set the pith in the lard and smeared some lard on the pith to prime it.

The lit result was very pleasing...

Thoughts

Most often Bushcraft is promoted as a set of skills. In itself, these skills provide a marvellous journey of discovery for the practicioner. What the Paleolithic Lamp experiment demonstrates is that enjoyment can be taken further by imagining not just how, but why our ancestors did what they did.

Illustration: http://www.arturoasensio.es/

From here we can reach back in time to find endless possibilities of inspiration...

Stu Westfield

Ranger Expeditions

Hayfield, Peak District

#036 Legends Assemble

The Belgian Ardennes, a region of rolling hills, rough terrain, ridges and steep sided valleys cut by swift flowing rivers. Much of the area is covered by seemingly impenetrable forest.

For those with an eye on their history books or the landmark television series Band Of Brothers, the Ardennes are steeped in legends. The Belgae tribes were a thorn in the side of Caesar's Roman ambitions, Napoleon III was defeated during the Franco-Prussian war in the nearby Battle Of Sedan and of course the Ardennes winter nearly did for the 101st Airborne in the Battle Of The Bulge.

In modern day Belgium access to the countryside is largely via GR (Grand Randonne), Regional or local Promenade Routes, usually marked with coloured symbols.

With this in mind, Tim de Vriendt and Stef Schuermans, Race Directors of Legends Trails have done a superb job in negotiating local and regional by-laws which would have put off lesser event organisers. They have threaded a 250km course which gives a full flavour of the Ardennes and offers a challenge worthy of the legions which have trod, strived and crawled through its tough terrain.

The Legends Trails, now in its third successful year. Each edition has been different, the weather, the strategies and superb racing stories, from the winners to the endeavors of the Lantern Rouge to beat the cut-off time. Tim and Stef have built a quality race with generous home cooked food, enthusiastic volunteers, a specialist medical team and a dedicated HQ team, organising logistics and taking care of safety matters. Each participant is also equipped with a tracker from Legend's Tracking.

Website: Legends Event Tracking Services

In 2017 we saw the first two British finishers, Ryan Wood and Allan Rumbles. Perhaps it is no coincidence that both are also finishers of The Spine Race. Is the Legends Trails a tougher race than The Spine Challenger? Almost certainly yes. But is it as tough a proposition as the Full Spine. What we can say is that while the distance is shorter, the Ardennes terrain offers little opportunity to settle into a rhythm. It is relentless. If we let the numbers speak, then in 2018 there were 29 finishers from 70 starters.

For 2019 Allan has set up the British Legends Trail Team facebook group. Supported by Tim and Stef, the aim is to share this modern ultra classic with UK Ultra runners.

Facebook Group: British Legends Trails Team

Flights to Brussels from Manchester can be booked in advance from around £40 each way (plus checked in luggage). With a number of options from the airport to the area of the start. Plus there's the additional benefit of you being surrounded by these lovely national treasures...

In the past year I've helped several friends from Belgium and the Netherlands in their race skills training build up to their Spine Challenger and Spine Races. All have found their 'Complete Racer' training very useful in helping them race more efficiently. As the race models are similar, Spine finishers should also carry a useful skills set into The Legends.

2020 will be the 5th anniversary of the Legends Trail. To celebrate this there will be a 500km edition, an event to truly test the mettle of any ultra runner. So be it 2019 or 2020, Legends Assemble!

Legends Trails Website

Stu Westfield
Legends Trails Safety Team Leader