#089 Reimagining The Kinder Scout Ritual Landscape of Prehistory.

High on the slopes of Kinder Scout, Mermaids Pool derives its name from a fishy legend passed down through the generations. With slightly dubious variations on the ending: If you happen to see the Mermaid on Easter eve, she will either drag you into a watery grave, or bless you with eternal youth. Depending upon her mood.

We delve deeper into these tales on my annual Mermaids Pool Legends and Scandi Brunch guided walk, for which I schedule a join-a-group date around Eastertime each year. (And is also available on request as bespoke private guiding for individuals, families, groups of friends and corporate experience teams).

https://rangerexped.co.uk/kinder-scout-brunch/

Mermaids Pool is also said to be a holy well or sacred spring of pre-Christian ritual. 

We know from archaeological evidence discovered across the British Isles that Bronze Age (circa 2500 BCE to 800 BCE) ritual was intertwined with water and liminal places. This continued into the Iron Age (circa 800 BCE to 100 CE) where Bronze Age type ritual prevailed with reverence for the same places. Through ritual, People retained a sense of stability and continuity in a society that was changing and population increasing.

“Essentially Bronze Age rites were celebrated, but using Iron Age artefacts” – Francis Pryor

Among the votive offerings rediscovered through archaeological digs and by metal detectorists are ornate jewelry, daggers, swords, shields, carts and artefacts of domestic function. Often unused and pristine, it appears that items which were in some way special, were intentionally put beyond use. Some were purposely broken prior to deposition. Through these acts, people showed appropriate reverence for ancestors or spiritual beings as they thought of them in their beliefs.

Ritual deposition of artefacts
Various bronze swords, systematically put beyond use - 1000 to 800 BCE
The Great Torc - Snettisham - buried around 100 BCE
Shield facing in sheet bronze - from the River Witham, nr Lincoln - 400 t0 300 BCE
Photo: S Westfield, taken at the 2022 World Of Stonehenge exhibition
Montage images not to scale

Using phenomenology and clues from the Bronze Age, we take an imaginative journey of an initiate undergoing a coming of age ceremony along the Kinder River. As much as possible, we put aside modern predispositions to recreate a metaphorical and literal rite of passage through the landscape. 

The journey starts at the bottom of the valley within the realms of daily life in the Bronze Age.

Accompanied by elders and perhaps other age-set clan members, our initiate follows the river upstream. Through woodland where deer and wild boar might have been hunted.

Processional ceremonial monuments from the Neolithic (circa 4100 BCE to 2500 BCE) are well documented in the form of cursus earthworks and henges. Perhaps their roots lie even earlier in the lives of the Mesolithic hunter gatherers. We know from the orientation of features that along with themes of exclusion and transformation, celestial alignment was of deep importance to Neolithic cosmology, which continued into the Bronze Age. As land usage changed, the ritualization changes too, as illustrated by the various phases of repositioning the megaliths at Stonehenge. 

The next phase is cold immersion in the cleansing pools as preparation for the next stage of initiation. From this point onward there is visible and physical separation from the uninitiated.

Cleansing ritual has many ethnographic parallels in religion and indigenous culture. While we should be careful of drawing unsubstantiated inferences, which may never be provable, the essence of cleansing and transformation seems an innate aspect of the human condition. There are many examples: Jesus’ baptism in the River Jordan, Wudu washing before prayers in Islam, washing of feet in ancient customs symbolizing hospitality and humility, and of course the ubiquitous washing of hands before a meal. There is a practical element to these acts, but to separate the practical from the spiritual is to miss half the context.

In 2025 Bruce Parry returned with a new series of Tribe. He visits the Waimaha people of the Amazon, to learn more about their spiritual beliefs and forest rituals. But before he can participate he must prepare with a several rounds of what has to be deeply uncomfortable purgative cleansing.  

https://www.theguardian.com/tv-and-radio/2025/mar/30/tribe-with-bruce-parry-review-he-loses-his-mind-on-drugs-and-it-doesnt-disappoint

Our initiate approaches the next phase with some trepidation. A trial by endurance to prove strength and worthiness. To stand under the pounding cascade of the waterfall. Not to flinch from the frigid flow until the shaman is given a sign by the ancestors that the initiate has undergone the required metamorphosis. 

The waterfall is a large natural feature which can be seen at a distance for many miles around. But as one walks upstream, it is mostly hidden from view until close up. It is approached from the shady northern facing side of the valley. It is a foreboding place. The cliff faces either side, narrowing, amplifying the noise of the water and adding to the sense of enclosure. A southwesterly wind blows up the valley, causing the water to curl back upwards, before falling again. A mist of cold spray saturates the initiates before they reach the cascade.  Those which pass the test, proceed to the warm sunlit southern face and on to Mermaids Pool.

In the whole of the British Isles, the population during the Neolithic is estimated at just 100,000. Which rose to 250,000 in the early Bronze age. So, no doubt, these structures had a practical use in bringing bands of people together for intermingling of genes, the rekindling of bonds and bartering items. As well as certain rites of passage. But the separation of the practical and ritual, domestic and worship, are projections of our own modern lifestyles. In prehistory, these aspects of life would have been interwoven, even indistinguishable. To isolate and separate them may have been unintelligible to the minds of people in the Neolithic, Bronze and early Iron Age. 

Evidence of shamanism in the Mesolithic?
A woman buried with a ornate headdress, 
laid upright in a crouched position and covered in red ochre.
She was 25-35 years old and accompanied by a baby of 4-6 months.
Photo: S Westfield, taken at the 2022 World Of Stonehenge exhibition.

Physical separation is a common theme in rituals associated with rites of passage. Within the Masai of East Africa, age-set groups embark on a symbolic journey - a temporary relocation to a designated manyatta built specifically for the occasion. This separation from their families represents the start of social detachment from childhood, preparing them for new responsibilities. The ritual process reinforces intergenerational knowledge transfer and collective memory, sustaining Masai identity.

https://masaimarapark.com/enkipaata-ceremony/

Acts of separation, enlightenment and transformation prevail in today's society. Just look at the tradition of young people leaving home to study at college and university, passing tests, then returning to join the echelon of the workers. In contemporary story telling the monomyth, encompassing the same themes, is the framework for so many best selling works of literature (see Paulo Coelho's The Alchemist) and iconic cinema (Saving Private Ryan, Shawshank Redemption, Life of Pi).

The shaman raises his stave. The initiate has passed the test. Although nearly paralysed with cold, he keeps his posture upright and face set with appropriate solemnity as he moves around to the sunlit side of the valley. The procession then continues to Mermaids pool.

When viewed from water level of Mermaid’s pool, there is a sense of the infinite. The water reflects and merges with the sky. It also faces westward. When the weather is favourable, the sun casts burnt orange hues across the plains and toward the sea. Where the mountains of Snowdonia are silhouetted. 

It is here that our initiate gives thanks to the ancestors and places a votive offering into the pool.

So the association of Mermaids Pool with a place of ancient ritual is not without reasonable foundation. But our journey does not necessarily end here. We can further explore themes of separation, exclusion and restriction through ascent. In winter and poor conditions, the top of Kinder plateau is a forbidding place. It would have been no easier an environment to traverse in the Bronze age than it is now. 

Our ancestors may have looked upon the plateau as a forbidden place. It’s watery bogs the realm of those who had passed into the spirit world. Where only those with the proper induction, knowledge and blessing from ethereal souls were allowed to venture. 

Our initiate has distinguished himself among his peers and the elders. He is selected to accompany the shaman on what will be the first of many instructive treks onto the plateau. The shaman first shows him the correct veneration at the great guardian rocks for safe passage through to the realm beyond. And then he is led to the source of the river. A place from where all the energy of the ancestors is reborn and flows to nurture the clan.

This fits a practical purpose of not becoming lost in the maze of cloughs and channels. But the bogs might be the imagined, or maybe literal, resting place of ancestor spirits. Closer to the sky and therefore worthy of reverence and respect. Again, the practical and ritual aspects of cosmology inseparable to how the landscape was seen and understood.

There have been no finds of Bronze-Iron age bog bodies on Kinder. Such as Lindow Man, just a few miles away on the Cheshire Plain, unearthed in 1984 by peat cutting. Having been ritually sacrificed and deposited in the bog sometime between 2 BCE and 119 CE. But a physical presence of the deceased on Kinder may have not have been as important as the belief of their residing in this ultimate boundary layer between earth and sky.

“I cannot believe these concepts arose fully formed and fresh…Certain places have roots that go back a very long way, but the ideas, stories, myths and legends that make these places so special may have origins that can ultimately be traced back…thousands of years”.  – Francis Pryor

You too can experience this wonderful journey, taking in the panoramic scenery from unique viewpoints. Trekking the river Kinder from its confluence with the Sett to its source. All in one very special day, guided with myself...

River Kinder Trek To The Source
https://rangerexped.co.uk/kinder-river-sett-to-source/

Stu Westfield
Ranger Expeditions & Ranger Ultras Trail Running

****
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To join in my guided walks...
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#087 Akagera Rising

Thirteen years ago, I visited Akagera National Park, in Rwanda. I wrote at the time it was already a conservation success story. My time at Akagera was a bonus excursion I'd fitted in as part of a journey for a group who's primary aims were cultural engagement and contribution to NGO projects. 

To be honest, if safari had been the sole focus we would have planned a completely different itinerary. But I'm so glad we didn't as Akagera has given us a powerful story.

Link my 2012 expedition report: Rwanda Memories

Akagera was decimated during the 1994 genocide as, from their refuge across the border in Tanzania, the RPF (Rwanda Patriotic Front) launched its counter attack maneuvers against the Interahamwe militia. Soldiers and hungry civilians used the park as a larder. Poaching was rife, leaving the animal population shot out.

My memories of Akagera were ones of a National Park in the early stages of rehabilitation. That is not to say a considerable amount of work and investment had not already been made into security and infrastructure. These things take time and progress rebuilding the trophic pyramid has to be made from the ground upwards. First securing the habitat to allow successful repopulation.

We had some excellent viewings of odd and even toed ungulates. In particular, watching a pair of the rare swamp dwelling Sitatunga splash across reedbeds was a treat: Perhaps one which was lost on the youth group I was guiding at the time, who were more interested in the elephant. More of those later.

Also the birding was a joy, with wonderful splashes of colour from Lilac-breasted roller. We also kept a keen eye open for Shoebill stork which was known to nest in the wetland areas. But this one-of-a-kind species, which shares characteristics with stork and heron, remained elusive. 

My only Shoebill 'sighting' has been a historic taxidermy specimen in Oxford Natural History Museum, which enabled closer study of the distinctive bill, specialised to grab large prey, including lungfish, tilapia, eels, and snakes. It even snacks on baby crocodiles and Nile monitor lizards. I hope one day to be able to see and appreciate a live Shoebill in the wild.

During the intervening years, there have been several high profile translocation projects, reintroducing species, including lions from South Africa in 2015 as well as 18 black rhinos from South Africa in 2017, along with a further five from zoos in Europe in 2019

In 2021, thirty White rhino were introduced in the largest ever single translocation.

Link to the full feature: https://www.africanparks.org/rwanda-welcomes-30-white-rhinos-largest-ever-single-translocation

Akagera has risen to fulfil it's potential that was so evident on my visit all those years ago. It is now a Big 5 destination with thriving populations of lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and Cape buffalo. No doubt these area an ideal gateway attraction, but of course safari is about so much more. 

Link to the Big 5 in Akagera: https://www.akageranationalparkrwanda.org/big-5-in-akagera/

There is also a superb diversity of other species, including zebra, giraffe, crocodile, hippo, hyena and many antelope. 

Primates are well represented with olive baboon, silver monkey, vervet monkey and blue monkey.

Twitchers will not be disappointed either. Home to over 500 species, Akagera offers superb birding.

Recently, friends from Legends Tracking spent a few days on safari in Akagera and stayed in the Mantis Lodge, the only luxury hotel within the park. I listened intently to Tim, Fre and their two girls impressions and their take away highlights from their trip. It was lovely to hear how many more animals there were. Their evident enjoyment was a special trip down memory lane for me too.

Tim very kindly shared the safari pictures taken by his daughter. I'm delighted to show a handful of these in this blog, with credits.

Tim and family saw the beautiful Crowned Crane in Akagera.

For folks who are familiar with Ranger Ultras Trail Running, our 'Medals For Wildlife' scheme offers those participants who don't collect or retain their race medals, the opportunity to hand back their race medal (after a finishing photo celebration). We then recycle the race medals to the next event. At the end of each trail running year we add up the total and donate £3 for each medal's value to Tusk Trust. 

Medals For Wildlife: https://rangerultras.co.uk/index.php/medals-for-wildlife/

One of the conservation projects supported by Tusk Trust in Rwanda is the to reverse decline of the endangered Crowned Crane, threatened by habitat loss and poaching. The project locus is in the Rugezi Marsh, one of the headwaters of the Nile.

Link to the full feature: https://tusk.org/projects/rwanda-wildlife-conservation-association/

Back to Akagera: I never stayed at the Mantis Lodge, but I did take my group there for refreshing afternoon drinks before our drive back to the NGO project base. I recall the lodge being noticeably under occupied, indeed the opposite of the lodges I had overnighted at in Tanzania and Kenya.

I asked Tim & Fre how their stay went at Mantis. There were more guests there and they enjoyed the venue, but it was still quiet. This seems a pity as Akagera is now resurgent in it's quest to become a premiere wildlife viewing destination. 

Link to Mantis Akagera: https://www.mantiscollection.com/hotel/akagera-national-park-mantis-eco-lodge/

It's Big 5 status and affordable game drive fees are absolutely a massive enticement, especially so with the escalating prices and over tourism in other African national parks.
Akagera should be at the top of the wish list for anyone seeking an uncrowded safari with world class game viewing.

Thirteen yeas ago, I wrote, Akagera was a national park in ascendancy. 
Today it has truly arrived. Best get there soon.

Stu Westfield
Ranger Expeditions & Ranger Ultras Trail Running

*****

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#086 A Night At The Fort

Three kilometers distant, along a gated a private road, at the end of a tidal causeway is a costal fort. The canon situated there to defend the western end of the Menai Strait from American privateers approaching from the Irish Sea.

Constructed in 1775, Fort Belan is the only example of a purpose built fort of the American Revolution on the eastern side of the Atlantic Ocean. 

The fort was commissioned by Thomas Wynn, the then MP for Caernarfonshire (later to become Lord Newborough) due to concern for the vulnerability of Britain's coastline to attack. Although no shots were ever fired in battle and no further forts of its type were built in this period.

Victorian Ordnance Survey 1888-1913

A resurgence in British coastal fortification came 30 years later. In response to the threat of invasion by Emperor Napoleon I, a chain of Marello Towers were built to defend the Cinque Ports along the Sussex and Kent Coast. 

However, fort building reached it's zenith in the 1860's and 70's in an arms race prompted by Louis Napoleon. Resulting in the monumental Palmerston Forts and vaulted roof emplacements housing huge breach loading guns. 

The barrack block wings to the rear of Fort Belan are now used as holiday lets. These remain authentic with rustic charm and a unique experience. For folks who demand high end luxury, this is not the venue for you. When we stayed, there was nobody else renting the other units. Having the place to ourselves was wonderfully atmospheric.

Around the fort are many well preserved original and period features. Such as the powder and ammunition stores and the later watchtower built in the 1890's.

Adjacent to the fort, a dock was added later with workshops, stores and cranes. During WW2 the fort was back in military use as the base for the Home Guard and two rescue launches.

Fort Belan is a privately owned property. The upkeep cost of such a site of historic importance is huge and revenues from the holiday lets do help with this. 

Gorse

Directly outside of the fort is a pebbly shore. Swimming is not recommended due to the strong currents. 

Fairy foxglove

For nature lovers, there are wild flowers growing in abundance and on the edges of the protected sand dunes which form the peninsular.

Red valerian

Common vetch

Bird's-foot-trefoil

Herb robert (maritimum)

Sea campion

Annual bugloss

Lesser spotted dogfish, desiccated by the sea wind,
 with an unbirthed egg case "mermaid's purse"

Rafa on patrol

Smoked treats, bought from nearby Anglessey

If you liked this topic, I invite you to browse my other blog postings.
With a range of topics including: nature, conservation, history, culture, culinary treats, expeditions, trail running and guided adventures.

To join in my guided walks check out:

Ranger Expeditions Guided Adventures

If you like your outdoors a bit more fast paced:

Ranger Ultras Trail Running